Let’s begin with the facts: Moschino is an Italian fashion brand founded by Franco Moschino in 1983 with, currently, Jeremy Scott as its creative director. According to Vogue, Franco Moschino was encouraged by Gianni Versace to begin his “eponymous label with a line of casualwear and jeans before eventually expanding to eveningwear, shoes, lingerie and perfumes“.
A way to look at the production looks of Moschino is to primarily understand what Franco Moschino once said. He said, “My approach is a contradiction, I know, but why not?” In essence, Moschino fulfils controversy and partakes in global arguments and conflicts (metaphorically speaking). It is an added voice that expresses itself and makes itself heard through visual imagery.
Take a look at the photograph on the right of Dayana Moldazhanova wearing a dress from Moschino’s Resort 2015 Collection. The Coca-Cola idea behind it demonstrates Jeremy Scott’s scope—to design clothing, accessories, and shoes that pop and are fun.
A simple way to have this point illustrated is to evaluate Moschino’s runway appearances and attempt to identify a pattern within its tactic of demonstrating vogue. The first key characteristic of Moschino is colour. Moschino is famous for its wit and flamboyance. Jeremy Scott is not afraid to combine different and opposing temperatures and nuances of colours to create a look that is abstract.
Susie Lau wrote in an article for Vogue that Jeremy Scott’s designs for Moschino “invite some parsing, what with their playful, postmodern recontextualisation of familiar images and tropes, but Scott would rather people take it all in as fun.”
Yet, the braiding of colours in nearly a chaotic way is more than playful, I would argue. It is like defining the latter work of Pablo Picasso; you cannot narrow down the intensity and feeling of his work through an adjective such as “playful” at that point. This is because there is so much more to it: there’s vibrance and there’s a sense of unreality and fantasy but, chiefly, a sense of youth.
Except when I refer to youth as a description of Moschino, I am not necessarily referring to childhood. I am including childhood and infantry into this category that I’ve entitled “youth”, yet I am more trying to reach out towards adolescence and early adulthood. That transition and stretch across the first half of an average life length is what I feel Moschino is particularly inspired by and successfully transmits. So, on top of colour and vibrancy, this is the second key characteristic of Moschino—youth. Moschino is full of energy and life.
“I like to think of my work and the way people approach it in the same way people approach a Lichtenstein painting,” Jeremy Scott said. “You can write a one-hundred-page dissertation about why he used comics. Or it could be like, ‘This is cute!'”
Moschino shouts Moschino, you may have noticed. It literally shouts it’s name and places itself right in the midst of anything: events, ideas, personalities, stereotypes. This is another key characteristic of Moschino: wit. If you buy a Moschino product, everyone will know it is Moschino, because if they are not aware of the style then they must be able to read MOSCHINO printed in huge letters all round.
Perhaps this why there have been abundant critiques to Jeremy Scott’s adaptations of fashion. Yet, as I have discussed in previous articles such as one about Gucci that you can read here, fashion has extended to be a lot more than just vogue nowadays—it is art. In fact, Franco Moschino once said, “Good taste doesn’t exist”—a difficult statement to comprehend and a controversial one nonetheless.
Celebrities have always been and will always continue to be a major role in spreading word and advertising brands such as Moschino. Miley Cyrus is a particularly representative figure of Moschino who, in the most recent years, has seemed to become wholly a Moschino icon. Other personalities such as Kylie Jenner and Romee Strijd have also been spotted wearing Moschino.
Finally, it is important to recognise the influence of Jeremy Scott through Moschino. His position allows him to not only express himself, but also to create a new form of looking at aspects of the world—through happier, louder, and younger eyes.